People from all walks of life shared tables, rubbed shoulders and broke bread together. They were the first places in Bombay where people of any culture, class or religion could take cool refuge from the street with a cup of chai, a simple snack or a hearty meal. These cafés broke down barriers by bringing people together over food and drink. Opened early last century by Zoroastrian immigrants from Iran, there were almost four hundred cafés at their peak in the 1960s. Bentwood chairs were reflected in stained mirrors, next to sepia family portraits. Students had breakfast, families dined, lawyers read their briefs and writers found their characters. Their faded elegance welcomed all: rich businessmen, taxi-wallas and courting couples.
THE OLD IRANI CAFÉS have almost disappeared.
